Saturday, December 30, 2017

My Plan to Get an Ugly Chair for 80% Off


Today I spotted an awesome chair and ottoman (matching footstool) for sale at the local consignment store.  It was in new condition and was very comfortable.  But the exotic animal print on the fabric would not match the decor of most rooms.  This is good news, because at the consignment store, prices are reduced by 50% after 60 days and reduced down to 80% off after 90 days.


Price Markdown Schedule at the Consignment Store
  Price Markdown Schedule at the Consignment Store

Due to the unusual fabric pattern, I think there is a good chance this chair could still be for sale after 90 days, and I could get this awesome chair and ottoman set for 80% off.  The full price today was $150.  Too much.

At 50% off after 60 days, the price will be $75.  Still too much.

At 80% off after 90 days, the price will be $30.  This works for me.  In fact, this is a bit less than price I paid for the other chairs in my living room.  I am planning to put the chair in a room with cedar paneling and nothing else that it needs to match, so it would be just right for me.

My plan is to stop by the consignment store first thing when it opens on the day that the chair will be marked down to 80% off.

For this plan to work, I'll need to figure out the exact date when it will be marked down to 80% off.  The example on the markdown sign for today on Dec. 30:  items placed on the floor on Sept. 30 are 80% off, and items placed on the floor October 30 are 50% off.

After checking out some duration between dates with an online tool to calculate the duration between two dates, it appears that items are marked down to 50% on day 61, and the markdown to 80% off happens on day 91.

So when will my chair be marked down to 50% off and 80% off?  It was placed for sale on November 19, 2017.  Day 61 (50% off) will start on January 19, 2018 , and Day 91 (80% off) will start on February 18, 2018.

I don't really care about the 50% off date since the price will be too high, except for the fact that someone else may decide to buy the chair when it gets marked down to half price.  That is a risk I'll have to take.

February 18 falls on a Sunday this year.  I see that the consignment store opens at 11am on Sundays.  So, I'll plan to pop in first thing when the store opens on this date and see if the chair is still there or not.  If it is there marked down to 80% off, I'll be loading it up at about 11:05am!

Wish me luck...



Copyright © 2017 by Dr. Penny Pincher.  All Rights Reserved.  Privacy Policy

Friday, December 22, 2017

Skipping Christmas- Am I A Grinch?


I hope no one calls me a Grinch, but I decided to skip Christmas this year.  Running around buying expensive presents, and dealing with returning duplicate and defective items after Christmas seems like such a waste of time and money.

Am I a Grinch For Skipping Christmas Presents?
  Am I a Grinch For Skipping Christmas Presents?  

Skipping Christmas would not work for everyone.  I can get away with this because my kids are older, with one in college and the other in high school.  If you have younger kids, you probably WILL be called a Grinch if you try to skip Christmas.  If you have kids under about 6 years old, you will have some serious explaining to do if you decide to skip Christmas...

By "skipping Christmas", I mean skipping the buying presents part.  We still put up the Christmas tree and we put up more outdoor lights than ever.  But we'll also skip the buying candy to put in stockings part.  Stocking stuffers are expensive, and everyone in my household has pretty much moved on from eating candy.

This year we plan to use the money we save from skipping the presents for a road trip instead.  I like the idea of getting an experience as a family instead of buying more stuff that we don't need.  With our youngest graduating from high school soon, this may be our last road trip as a family unit.

Not only did we save money on the cost of presents, but we didn't pay for gas to drive around buying presents, we didn't spend money on shipping for presents, and we won't end up making additional purchases sparked by presents.  For example, if you buy your kids a new video game console, you are setting yourself up to buy hundreds of dollars of games in the future.

Plus, by skipping the presents, we conserved natural resources that would have been consumed for manufacturing the presents, packaging them, and wrapping them to put under the tree.

How would you feel about skipping Christmas presents to save money, conserve resources, and reduce stress and hassle?


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Wednesday, December 20, 2017

A Free Lunch (Almost)


I took my lunch to work like I do almost every day.  As usual, I carried it in my giant insulated lunchbox.


My giant insulated lunchbox!
  This lunchbox is HUGE- check out how big it is compared to the pen next to it!  

Today's almost free lunch menu:
1) About 1 cup of raw "baby" carrots, 30 days past the "use by" date on the bag.  I count these as free since they were basically rescued from the garbage.

2) A small container of guacamole with garden vegetables that no one at my house liked- including me!  My wife said to just throw it away, but I decided I would be hungry enough at work that it would taste good.  This trick worked.  Things do taste better when you are hungry.

3) A few corn chips for the guacamole.  I took a bag from home that was already open and brought it back.  The entire bag cost about $2.50 and I would say I took about 50 cents worth of the chips.

4) Office baked macaroni and cheese.  We had some leftover plain pasta noodles from dinner last night.  I added a pat of butter in the glass Tupperware container when I packed the noodles in my lunchbox.  I also brought a small hunk of cheddar cheese.  I used the real knife I keep at work (don't worry, it is only a bread knife and is OK to have) to slice up the cheddar on top of the noodles and butter before microwaving.  This turned out pretty well.  I am sure no one would have eaten the noodles.  The butter was probably 10 cents worth, and the cheese maybe another 50 cents.

So, the damage for my lunch today:
  • Expired carrots, let's call them free.
  • Unwanted guacamole, let's call it free.
  • Corn chips from an already opened bag, let's call it 50 cents.
  • A pat of butter and a small block of cheddar, let's call it 60 cents.

Total: $1.10

OK, so it wasn't a free lunch, but as they say... there's no such thing as a free lunch!

I have saved tons of money over the years scavenging stuff from home to take for lunch and snacks in my giant lunchbox.  I try to grab stuff that would otherwise get thrown away and have it for lunch, as long as it is not spoiled.

If you haven't developed the habit of packing and taking your lunch, you are missing out on an easy way to eat healthier and save some real money.



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Monday, December 18, 2017

What Am I Selling Here?


The other day, I read a book about content marketing.  The point of content marketing is to produce articles or whitepapers that lead readers to buy something that you are selling.  For example, a blog may provide some free tips on how to be a blogger in order to promote the purchase of an ebook or training program about making a lot of money at blogging.

What Am I Selling Here?
What Am I Selling Here?

The author of the book on content marketing stated several times that if you are blogging and don't know what you are selling on your blog, then you're wasting your time.

This made me think: what is it I am selling on this blog?  Of course, I am promoting my e-book with 101 tips to save money.  I have sold 10's of thousands of copies.  The problem (for me) is that it is selling for the price of free!  Does it count if what you are selling is free?

Another thing I am selling on my blog is advertising.  Last night I loaded the Penny Pincher Journal homepage on my cell phone and I noticed there were 2 banner ads: one for Honda featuring their new minivan and one for CBS featuring new episodes of Big Bang Theory.  It's cool that international businesses like Honda and CBS are choosing to advertise on my blog.  The good news (for you) is that this advertising doesn't cost readers anything.

Now that I think about it, something I am selling on this blog is: myself.  By having a collection of published articles, I was able to land a nice freelance writing gig at Wise Bread.  This has brought in some money and has lead to syndicated articles at time.com, Business Insider, Yahoo Finance, and a number of other high profile places.  I have also gotten to write some guest posts at other blogs due to my presence on this blog.

I did try making a few products that cost money:

Two things I learned from marketing both free products and products that cost money:
  1. You have to sell free products.  Just because it's free doesn't mean people will want it.  You have to convince them that it is worth their time and hassle even if it is free.
  2. Free products are a lot easier to sell than products that cost money.  Even if you are charging just a little bit of money, it is a quantum leap for most people to decide to spend money on buying something vs. a free download or viewing a free webpage.
But back to the original question: what am I really selling?  Sure, I would like it if people bought lots of copies of my ebook and audiobooks, but I'm not really pushing them.  I think what I am really selling here is free resources to help people save money.  I'll put up a few ads, and if there are enough people looking at my free resources, I'll make some money from the advertising.

I like this plan because it doesn't take money from those people who are here trying to find ways to save money!  The money comes from advertisers who make money from the sales leads that the ads produce.  Everyone wins.  The trick is to bring in enough readers to make the advertising pay.

And I'll keep writing articles as a freelancer to sell to publishers.  This gets my name out there, spreads my message, and brings in some money.  This allows people who can benefit from information on saving money to get it for free.  The publishers pay me for my articles and get paid from advertising revenue on their site.  Advertisers make money from sales leads.  Again, everyone wins.

So here's what I'm selling on this blog: I am giving away tips and resources on saving money for free in order to generate some revenue from advertising and to promote my ability to sell articles to other publishers.

For me, producing and trying to sell my ebook and audiobooks that cost money has been more of a waste of time than simply giving my stuff away for free.  I plan to focus on promoting my free stuff, producing more really great free stuff, and not worry about selling anything.


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Saturday, December 16, 2017

Advantages of Driving an Older Car

Why I Like Driving an Older Car


My $450 Pickup Truck
My $450 Pickup Truck

This picture of my $450 pickup truck still makes me smile.  I saw a classified ad in the paper (this was a few years ago) for a pickup truck for sale for $500.  I called the number and arranged to go and check it out.  The truck was owned by a young guy with a big bushy beard who literally lived on the edge of a dump.  He had built a homemade topper on the back of the truck, which seemed to be in OK mechanical condition for a 16 year old vehicle.

As I was checking the truck out, he mentioned he needed some money for the weekend coming up.  I offered him a check for $450 and he signed over the title.  I was the proud owner of an older vehicle!

The only thing this truck needed was a new gas cap.  I drove it for a year with no problems at all and then sold it.

The car I drive now is 13 years old.  It is in better shape than the old Dodge Ram pickup, but it has some quirks.  One window does not work, and I taped it closed with duct tape as a permanent repair.

Driving an older vehicle does have some disadvantages.  Reliability may be reduced.  Occasional repairs may be needed (or deferred).  But overall, driving an older vehicle has some significant advantages:

Low Cost

The most obvious advantage of driving an older car is cost.  Older cars are less expensive to buy, and it is much more feasible to buy an older car with cash instead of financing it and making payments every month.  I have made car payments that are more than $450 per month, but if you are willing to drive an older car, you can buy it outright for the cost of only one car payment.

No Depreciation

Another thing I like about driving an older car is you don't have to worry about depreciation.  Once a car has a lot of miles on it, the amount of value that is reduced by driving more miles is almost nothing.  But the cost of putting miles on a new car is very expensive in terms of depreciation and reduction of resale value.  When you drive an older car, you celebrate putting more miles on it instead of dreading it like you do with a newer car.


Cheap Insurance and Registration

Older cars are much less expensive to insure and registration fees for older cars are almost nothing.

No Worries About Minor Damage

Plus, with an older cars many repairs are optional.  I was just telling my kids a story about the time when I was in college and someone bumped into my car when it was parked on the street, scraping it.  The person left a note on my windshield offering to file a report with his insurance company to get it repaired.  I called him and told him not to worry about it.  If I had a newer car, I would have worried about it.  Another example of this is the broken window that I repaired with duct tape.  I wouldn't be able to save money and hassle by doing a quick homemade repair like this if I had a newer car.

Expensive Options for Almost Free

One of my favorite things about my current old car is that it is loaded with features such as heated leather seats, a sunroof, a towing package, and a 6-disc CD player and awesome stereo.  When you are buying an old car, it doesn't cost much more to get one that is fully loaded with the most expensive options.


You can always find a nicer, more expensive car with better features.  But it is hard to beat an older car that runs and that is paid off!


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Saturday, December 9, 2017

The $4.11 Turkey (15 lbs)

The 411 on Bargain Turkey


Bargain Turkey after Thanksgiving!
Bargain Turkey after Thanksgiving!

The Saturday after Thanksgiving I was at the grocery store with Mrs. Penny Pincher to pick up a few things.  As I walked the aisles, I wondered if there would be an overstock of turkeys that could be had at bargain prices.  I figured that the store would not want to risk running out of turkeys before Thanksgiving and would err on the side of having too many.

I learned I was right about my suspicions of a turkey overstock when I came across a 15 pound turkey on sale for $4.11.  It was in a refrigerator case, so I wouldn't even need to mess around with thawing it out.  I could just pop it in the oven and gets 15 pounds of really easy and really cheap food.  Apparently someone had ordered this one (it had a name written on a tag), but had not picked it up.  There were 5 or 6 other defrosted turkeys of similar size and price.

Next year, I'll plan to go bargain hunting for defrosted turkeys on the day after Thanksgiving.  We ended up eating the turkey for several days, including lots of slices of turkey meat and even made a turkey casserole.

I wonder if I could pick up a cheap ham after Christmas?

Project time: Less than one hour.
Project cost: About $4.11.
Savings: Probably about $15 vs. buying a turkey at full price.  Having cheap food around instead of buying other things for lunch and dinner for a few days probably saved even more.


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Sunday, December 3, 2017

I Repaired My Car Window with Duct Tape (and It's OK)

I Repaired My Car Window with Duct Tape (and It's OK)


Broken car window held closed with duct tape
Broken car window held closed with duct tape

A funny thing happened last summer.  The rear driver side window in my car wouldn't roll up.  It was having some intermittent problems with the electric motor going up and down and would sometimes get stuck for a few minutes until it would move again.  Finally it stopped moving altogether.  Pushing the window up into the closed position didn't work.  The window would just slide about half way open and would not stay closed.

It would have been more convenient if the window would have stopped working in the closed position instead of the open position.  If the window had stuck in the closed position, I could have ignored it.  But with the window open, rain would come in and cause further damage.  Plus wind noise at highway speed is pretty loud with the window half way down all the time.  Clearly I would need to do something about the window not being able to close.

I thought about taking my car in to a shop to have the window repaired, but I have heard horror stories about bills of hundreds of dollars for repairing electric car windows.  Coming up with that kind of money was not going to work.  But I had duct tape.  Not every problem can be solved with duct tape - or at least that is what my wife tells me.  But I decided this was just the kind of problem that called for duct tape.

I didn't want my car to look too junky with duct tape all over since I drive it to work.  So I decided to tape the window closed from the inside with duct tape, and trim the tape neatly to make it less obvious that the window is taped closed.

Minimizing the amount of duct tape is a security enhancement too, since the window could be pried open from outside, and using a lot of duct tape would call attention to that fact.  From outside the car, the small amount of duct tape is barely visible.

Duct tape was a better solution than glue for keeping the window closed since the duct tape can be removed easily.  If I find either the money to have the window repaired, or the time to figure out how to repair it myself with salvaged parts, I will be able to remove the duct tape fairly easily.

I added a finishing touch to the project by placing some painter's tape over the window switch in the back seat.  This serves as a reminder not to try to move the window with the switch since it is taped closed.

Painter's tape over window switch
Painter's tape over window switch

The duct tape has been holding for over 6 months now without any problems.  As you can see in the first photo, I used some silver duct tape and some extra-strong "gorilla" black duct tape to keep the window closed.

Project time: Less than one hour.
Project cost: About $1.
Savings: Probably a few hundred dollars by using duct tape instead of repairing the electric window.


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Sunday, November 26, 2017

Welcome to Penny Pincher Journal!

Welcome to Penny Pincher Journal!

Dr. Penny Pincher
 Dr. Penny Pincher 

Do you wish you had more money?  The easiest way to get more money is to spend less!

It's a vicious cycle: you spend more money to buy more stuff, only to find that you are still not satisfied.  All of that spending in pursuit of happiness is keeping you in debt and limiting your lifestyle options.  I have found that there will always be at least one more thing you want to buy in order to be happy...  The way to break this cycle and find happiness is to spend less money, not more!

If you are looking for easy ways to spend less money, you are in the right place!  Penny Pincher Journal is a blog loaded with FREE articles and advice to help you spend less money and enjoy life more.  You can even get a free eBook here with 101 tips to help you spend less money.

Take a look around this site and get free money-saving advice and tips from Dr. Penny Pincher.  Stop back soon- new articles and blog posts are added frequently.

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How to Return an Item Without a Receipt, and Without Original Packaging


Return Without Receipt, and Without the Box!



Deboot, verb:  To return unneeded boots and get much-needed cash.  In extreme cases, this can be done even after the box is recycled, and without a receipt.

How to do a return without a receipt, and without the box
How to do a return without a receipt, and without the box


The other day, my wife showed me some boots she had picked up at Kohl's sometime within the past few weeks.  She mentioned that they pinched her feet and she wanted to return them.

On one hand, this was great news.  She got the fun of shopping and getting new boots, and it wasn't going to cost anything.  We could get the money back, plus we would regain valuable closet space.

But the bad news is that I remembered recycling the box.  I usually save boxes for a few weeks after a purchase in case we need to return an item.  But I knew this one was long gone.

"Do you have the receipt?" I asked.  Mrs. Penny Pincher said it was probably in her purse.  After a thorough search of her purse, her car, and the recycling bin, I concluded that the receipt was also gone.

So we had some unwanted boots with no receipt and no box.  But we knew what store they were from, and she knew she used one of the credit cards in her purse to buy them.  I was willing to give returning them a try even though I knew it would be a challenge.

I found a Kohl's bag to carry the boots into the store.  It wasn't as good as having the box, but at least it conveyed that the boots were bought from that store.  When I reached the front of the return line, I explained that I needed to do a return without a receipt.  They said they could look up the purchase if I had the credit card.

I started going through my wife's collection of credit cards from her purse.  We checked her Kohl's card, and it wasn't that one.  We tried a U. S. Bank card, and it wasn't that one.  We tried looking up her Kohl's reward card number, but this also failed.  We tried another U. S. Bank card and it was a winner!

The entire process of doing a return without a receipt and without the original packaging took only a few minutes.  It was well worth it to get over $33 back and avoid wasting a pair of boots that were not needed.

Here are the highlights of how to do a return with no receipt and without original packaging:

  • Make sure the item you are returning is clean and is in new condition
  • Take the item back to the store and ask to return it
  • Request to search for the purchase on a credit card transaction
  • Be friendly to the store employees in the return line, it might take some patience to find the purchase on a credit card
  • Bring all of the credit cards with you that could have been used to make the purchase
  • Keep track of which cards you have checked so you don't end up checking the same card twice


What if you paid cash instead of using a credit card?  Doing a return without a receipt is easier if you used a credit card since there is a record of the transaction that the store can look up.  You might still be able to return the item even if there is no record of the purchase, but you might get store credit instead of a refund.  Also, you might get the lowest sale price for the item instead of the price you paid.



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Saturday, July 22, 2017

DIY Rear View Mirror Replacement


Today as my son was pulling out of the driveway, his rear view mirror fell off!


My Rear View Mirror Fell Off!  How Can I Fix It?
My Rear View Mirror Fell Off!  How Can I Fix It?


This is the same 13 year old Toyota Matrix that just underwent a door check strap replacement (details on how I saved $160 by doing this repair myself are in my post from last week).

So now, I had an opportunity to learn how to replace a rear view mirror that has fallen off.

The key to success is to remove the "button" from the rear view mirror assembly.  The "button" is a flat metal part that is attached with adhesive to the windshield.

The general procedure to re-attach a rear view mirror is:
  1. Remove the "button" from the mirror assembly.
  2. Using a razor blade, carefully remove the old adhesive from the windshield and the "button"
  3. Clean the windshield where the "button" will be attached
  4. Apply the activator to both the windshield and "button" and wait 5 minutes
  5. Apply a drop of adhesive to the "button" and press it in place against the windshield for 1 minute
  6. Wait at least 15 minutes for the adhesive to cure, then reattach the rear view mirror


Here are the tools and materials you'll need:
  • Screw driver to remove rear view mirror from "button".  Mine had a screw that took a star driver to remove.
  • Razor blade to remove old adhesive from "button" and windshield
  • Glass cleaner and paper towel or rag to clean windshield
  • Gloves to wear when applying the adhesive
  • And of course you'll need rear view mirror adhesive, I used a product from 3M that cost under $10, see picture below.


Rear View Mirror Adhesive
Rear View Mirror Adhesive
You can get rear view mirror adhesive at a car parts store or order it from Amazon.

3M 08749 High Bond Rearview Mirror Adhesive - 0.02 fl. oz.

The set includes a tube of activator and a tube of adhesive that are designed to attach the rear view mirror to the windshield.




Here is what the rear view mirror "button" looks like:

Rear View Mirror "Button"
Rear View Mirror "Button"

The button is a flat piece of metal that is glued on to the windshield.  The rear view mirror assembly has an opening that fits the shape of the button.  It very difficult to re-attach the rear view mirror without removing the button.  You'll want to remove the button, re-attach that to the windshield, and then hang the rear view mirror assembly back in place.


Rear View Mirror Button Back In Place
Rear View Mirror Button Back In Place
The photo above shows the rear view mirror button back in place after scraping the old adhesive off, cleaning the windshield, applying activator, and applying adhesive and pressing the button back in place.

Next, wait at least 15 minutes for the adhesive to cure.

Finally, hang the rear view mirror assembly in place on the button and attach it with a set screw to hold it in place.

Hanging the Rear View Mirror on the Button
Hanging the Rear View Mirror on the Button

With the rear view mirror attached again, the car was ready to drive.  This repair took about 30 minutes and was pretty easy to do.  I don't know how much a body shop would charge for this, but I would guess around $50.

Stay tuned to see what breaks next on the old Toyota Matrix...


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Saturday, July 15, 2017

Saving $160 on a Simple Car Repair

How I Saved $160:  DIY Replacement Car Door Stop Strap


The Broken Car Door Check Strap...
The Broken Car Door Check Strap...

The other day, we were saying goodbye to my teenage son in the driveway.  His suitcases were in the back, and he was heading out on his first real road trip, a 100 mile drive to a summer camp.  As he was closing his car door, something snapped on the driver's side of the 13 year old Toyota Matrix.

A small hinge in the middle of his car door had broken in half.  The door would now swing wide open, more than 90 degrees, but the door still seemed to close securely.  We didn't investigate this much at the time since he had to go to make it to his summer camp opening events on time.

After he returned, I took the Toyota with the broken door check strap to the shop and asked if they could repair it.  They could, but the cost would be $225.

I asked if they meant $2.25, but no-- the estimate was actually for over $200 to replace the little hinge in the middle of the door.  They said the part is specific to this model of car and is quite expensive.  This seemed like way too much, so I declined.

I checked out some videos on YouTube on how to replace this part.  It was held in place by 3 bolts, one in the frame of the door, and 2 more to hold the other side of the hinge in the door itself.  The only tricky part is that you have to remove a couple of screws and pop the door panel off of the metal part of the door.  I always worry that I won't be able to put something like this back together, but I decided that it would be worth the trouble if I could save more than about $50 by doing the repair myself.

My next move was to look for this part myself.  I could get a brand new part for this model of car for $90 from a car parts store.  This is still expensive, but better than $225.

Next, I decided to look at junk yards for a salvaged part.  I didn't think the door check strap needed to be brand new since no other part on the 13 year old car was new.  Plus, I had never seen this part break on a car before, so I thought a used one would be fine if the price was better.

I started calling junk yards and salvage yards.  The first two I called did not have this part.  It was often included with the door, and I didn't want to buy an entire door assembly to get the part.  I tried a third junk yard-- they didn't have the part, but could get it the next day.  The price:  $55.  I placed the order.

I assembled the tools I needed for the job: a 10mm socket wrench, a Phillips screwdriver, a small flat blade screwdriver to remove a screw cover, and a pry bar.  The instructions called for a plastic pry bar to carefully remove the door panel, but I used a small metal pry bar that I already had and wrapped a rag around it to protect the plastic door panel.

As with most projects, the disassembly part was quick and easy.  Installing the new door stop hinge was easy too.  But getting the door panel attached straight and tight when putting everything back together was a little tricky.  Luckily Mrs. Penny Pincher walked by at the right time and helped get the door panel lined up and snapped in nice and tight, just like new!  Tip: line up the door panel at the top, along the window first, and then work down from there.

Here's how much I saved by installing the door check strap myself:

Car shop estimate: $225
Salvaged part cost: $60 (including tax, etc)
Gas to drive to get the salvaged part: $5

Savings: $225 - $60 - $5 = $160

It took about an hour to track down and drive to pick up the salvaged part, and about 30 minutes to install it.  So my hourly rate of pay for doing this project was over $100 per hour!

Even if you don't have any of the tools for this repair and had to buy them, it would still be worth doing this project yourself.  I'm glad I gave this a try considering how much money I saved.


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Wednesday, May 17, 2017

Why I Got a Cordless Electric Lawn Mower

Oh Snap!


I Replaced My Broken Gas Mower With A Cordless Electric Mower!
I Replaced My Broken Gas Mower With A Cordless Electric Mower!

My wife sent me out to use the push mower to mow a small part of our yard that is on the side of the hill and is a bit tricky to mow with the riding mower.  This should have been a pretty easy assignment, but when I pulled the cord to start the mower.... SNAP!  I knew this was bad news, because the starter cord broke last year too.  I ended up buying a new starter coil mechanism for about $40 dollars and installed it.  Since the mower is about 10 years old, it was a tough decision to put $40 into it, but I figured this was cheaper than replacing it.

When the mower broke again, I had the opportunity to revisit this decision.  I decided not to put any more money into this mower.  It still works fine (except for the starter cord), but it was showing its age.  The wheels are worn down.  The plastic deflector for grass coming out has been broken for years and has been re-attached using some wire.  The blade is dull and should be sharpened or replaced..

So I loaded up the old mower and took it to the landfill for a disposal fee of $12.50.  That part was pretty easy.  Now for the hard part- getting another mower.

Why I Got An Electric Lawn Mower

When I had a small yard, I considered getting a plug-in electric mower.  With a small yard, it wouldn't be too hard to plug in an extension cord and reach the entire yard.  I like the idea on an electric mower because that means no gas, no oil, no spark plugs, and most importantly... NO STARTER CORD!

But my yard now is large and ranges from prairie to forested areas beyond the reach of an extension cord.  I mow almost all of it with a nice riding mower equipped with snow chains to help with traction in hilly areas.  The push mower is needed only for trimming and mowing some tight spots that I can't reach with the riding mower.

I decided to get a cordless electric push mower to replace the old gas mower.



There are some full-sized 22 inch cordless electric mowers, but these run around $500.  I found a slightly smaller 16" model from Black and Decker for about $250.  Actually, the small size is handy for reaching the tighter spaces I want to mow with a push mower anyway.

The first problem I had with the Black and Decker is the bag.  This mower is designed to collect grass clippings in a bag.  This is handy sometimes, but emptying the bag is tedious.  I used a wire clothes hanger to hold the rear door open a few inches.  I turned this mower into a rear-discharge mower, and it works pretty well.  I plan to use the bag sometimes, but most of the time I will use it in rear-discharge mode.

Here is a picture of how I used a wire clothes hanger to make the Black and Decker discharge out the back when I don't want to use the collection bag:

Make the Black and Decker a rear-discharge instead of bagging
How to Avoid Using the Collection Bag


A pleasant surprise about the cordless electric mower is how quiet it is.  I can mow comfortably without ear plugs or hearing protection.  It is quieter than a vacuum cleaner, and there are no fumes.  Plus, it is so light that it is easy to move around the yard with it.

I will say, however, that if you are expecting a cordless electric mower to be just like a gas mower then you are likely to be disappointed.  This mower is ideal for light mowing:  fairly short grass, fairly even terrain.  You won't be hacking through thick, overgrown weeds with a cordless electric mower.  That's OK, because that isn't how I use my push mower.

Another potential downside- it looks like a toy.  Black and Decker tried to style it up nice and sporty.  It was a nice try, but the small plastic push mower does look like a child's toy.  This doesn't bother me, but it may bother some people.

This mower comes with two 40V battery packs with 2 amp-hour capacity.  I like that there are 2 batteries included so you can always have a fully charged backup battery ready to go.  These high capacity batteries also work with other Black and Decker tools.  If the mower keeps working well, I will think about getting a cordless electric trimmer too.

Since the cordless mower already came with 2 batteries, I could buy the "bare tool" cordless hedge trimmer for around $50.  You can also get a cordless string trimmer and even a battery-powered snow blower and a battery-powered chain saw that use the same batteries and charger.




Overall, I think an electric mower will last a long time due to fewer mechanical parts to wear out, and it should require no maintenance other than sharpening the blade.  In the long run, I think I will come out ahead by upgrading to a cordless electric mower.


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